King for a day
Updated: Sep 28
King or queen for a day?
Another French food tradition that baffles me, Galette des rois. My dislike of Beaujolais nouveau is paralleled only by that for the galette des rois, a common form of which is puff pastry and a frangipane (almond paste) and cream filling. Beyond the fact that it is probably the king of heavyweight pastries, the timing confounds me, as this happens early January, right after all the end of year celebrations and their accompanying excessive feasts, finishing off for good a practically terminal liver.
However, don’t let my aversion get in the way. Over 30 million galettes des rois are sold each year, and, on average, a French citizen has 5 slices over the course of January. Over 2 thirds of the French population prefer the puff pastry version, although in the South, it is a simpler and lighter brioche crown with preserved fruits representing precious stones.
The majority has spoken so I guess I am mistaken. This is yet another fantastic example of how the void left by secular France, the separation of church and state, has been filled by the almighty religion of food.
Let’s take a closer look at the fascinating history of the galette des rois. In January families, friends and colleagues assemble to share the galette des rois, the youngest and most innocent person, usually a child, goes under the table and distributes the slices around. Whoever has the bean, becomes king or queen for a day and wears a golden crown.
During the winter solstice (late December to early January) when the days became longer than nights, Saturnalia was celebrated in antique Rome, social norms were temporarily reversed, gambling allowed while masters served their slaves. An ephemeral King was chosen amongst the slaves, who gave playful orders and oversaw the celebrations.
During the Middle Ages, this pagan celebration was then subsumed into the Christian epiphany and the 3 wise men visiting the newborn Jesus on the 6th of January. The cake and the famous broad bean appeared in the 14th century in France. It eventually became a porcelain bean because the chosen king, having the obligation to pay for the following celebrations, would sometimes swallow the previously edible one to spare his wallet.
If a woman got the bean she would also be queen for a day and the royals had to grant all her wishes. Louis the 14th discontinued this trend, not wishing to comply any longer.
The tradition almost disappeared as, after the French revolution, the cake was rebranded Gâteau de la liberté and the bean removed, having chopped off the king’s head, any traces of monarchy and religion were blotted out. Nevertheless, this tradition was so dear to the people, it came back with a vengeance. This revolutionary idea was somewhat recuperated by Valérie Giscard d’Estaing (president of France from 1974 to 1981) with the tradition of the Galette du président, a 1m50cm diameter galette with no bean and no crown.
Nowadays, though part of the population still celebrates the galette for its religious value, most gatherings are entirely secular and just an excuse to get together and enjoy yet another treasure and tradition of French pastry.
Your turn to participate in this amazing tradition and here are some great addresses for delicious galettes des rois in Paris and nearby.
· Clamart, winner of the best galette 2026 : Maison Dumont | pâtissier chocolatier boulanger | Maison Dumont, Avenue Jean Jaurès, Clamart, France
· 75006 Épiphanie – Maison Arnaud Larher
· Montreuil Commerce Fadoli à Montreuil - Fooding ®
· 75018 Epiphanie – PAINPAIN
· 75011 La Boulangerie Nouvelle (brioche)
· 75011 and other shops Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie
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